Home Affordability Calculator

A realistic home-price budget based on the 28/36 rule lenders actually use — with property taxes, insurance, and your existing debts built in.

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Home price you can afford
Loan amount
Monthly payment (PITI)
— Principal & interest
— Taxes & insurance
Binding limit
Down payment %

Assumes a 30-year fixed loan. PMI (required below 20% down) is not included — budget roughly 0.3–1.5% of the loan per year if applicable.

How this calculator decides your budget

Lenders don't start from home prices — they start from your monthly capacity. This tool does the same, in three steps:

  1. Find your payment ceiling. Housing is capped at 28% of gross monthly income (front-end), and housing plus all other debt at 36% (back-end). Whichever produces the smaller housing payment wins.
  2. Subtract the non-loan costs. Property taxes and insurance live inside your monthly payment (PITI), so they're carved out before any principal and interest.
  3. Work backwards to a price. The remaining principal-and-interest capacity is converted into a maximum loan using the standard amortization formula, and your down payment is added on top.

Because property tax scales with the home's value, the calculator solves for the price where everything balances — a detail many simple calculators skip, which is why their numbers run high.

Why rates move your budget more than prices do

On a $90,000 income with modest debts, watch what the interest rate alone does to the maximum price (20% down, same tax and insurance):

Mortgage rateApprox. max home price
5.0%~$390,000
6.5%~$345,000
8.0%~$305,000

A 3-point rate swing changes buying power by roughly 25%. This is why "waiting for prices to drop" can backfire if rates rise in the meantime — and why a rate buydown or a larger down payment is sometimes worth more than a price negotiation.

The costs that aren't in your mortgage payment

Budgeting to the PITI number alone is the classic first-time buyer mistake. Plan for:

Before house-hunting, confirm your debt-to-income ratio is where lenders want it, and keep an emergency fund intact after closing — the down payment shouldn't be your last dollar.

Getting from "afford" to "approved"

This calculator estimates capacity; a lender adds credit score, employment history, and reserves. To present the strongest file: avoid new debt for six months before applying (a car loan can cut your budget by $40,000+ — test it above), keep credit utilization low, and get pre-approvals from two or three lenders within a 45-day window so the credit inquiries count as one. Once you have a target price, see what extra payments would do to the loan long-term.

Frequently asked questions

How many times my salary can I borrow for a house?
The "3x salary" shortcut breaks when rates move. At 7%, buyers max out around 3–3.5x gross income; at 4%, closer to 4.5–5x. Payment-based math like the 28/36 rule adjusts for rates automatically — it's what lenders actually use.
What is the 28/36 rule?
Housing payment ≤ 28% of gross monthly income, and housing plus all debts ≤ 36%. The tighter cap sets your budget. Loans can be approved above these ratios, but 28/36 marks the comfortable zone.
How much down payment do I really need?
20% avoids PMI but isn't required: conventional loans go to 3% down, FHA 3.5%, VA/USDA 0% for eligible buyers. PMI costs roughly 0.3–1.5% of the loan yearly and disappears at 20% equity.
Should I buy at the top of my approved budget?
Pre-approval is a ceiling, not advice — it ignores maintenance, childcare, and savings goals. Shopping 10–20% below your maximum leaves room for repairs and surprises.